for Whitchurch Canonicorum, Wootton Fitzpaine and Stanton St. Gabriel Parishes

The Marshwood Vale nestles inland from Charmouth, surrounded by the hills of Pilsdon, Lewesdon, Lambert’s Castle and Coney’s Castle. The heart of the Vale was a royal hunting ground under the control of Marshwood Castle (of which little remains) from the 12th century. Past royal and ecclesiastical connections to the area are indicated by such farm names as Higher and Lower Park, formerly royal deer parks, and the Abbotts Wootton farms were at one time owned by the Abbott of Abbotsbury.

The patchwork landscape slowly evolved as more land was taken into cultivation. Dairying had been established on the higher slopes in Anglo-Saxon times and much later many acres were used for flax cultivation with the associated ponds for retting (soaking the flax to soften the fibres), the flax being used by the rope making trade in Bridport. A hundred and sixty years ago most of the land formed part of large estates. Nowadays most farms are owner occupied.

Today the clay soil has been drained and supports productive grassland that continues the dairying tradition, with the inclusion of sheep and occasional cornfields. Farming expanded during the latter part of the last century and with incomes and land prices rising, small farms were bought and absorbed into larger units. Farming has continued to evolve and diversify as the farming community weathers the changes brought about by international agreements, milk prices, changes in consumer demand, and livestock regulations.

Few hay meadows with native wildflowers remain. Now they are mainly to be found along roadside verges. These are protected by an agreement between Dorset Wildlife Trust and the County Council. Many of the hedgerows were established during medieval times and form an important part of the visual landscape as well as providing shelter for stock and wildlife areas. The Countryside Stewardship Scheme has recognised their importance as a feature of the area, and helped with the preservation of some of them with on-farm agreements.

The focus of the Vale is the Church of St Wite at Whitchurch Canonicorum, founded by Alfred the Great in 890 AD. Ancient tracks brought pilgrims through the Vale to the saint’s shrine. One of the best ways to enjoy the peace and beauty of the Vale is to walk on one of the many footpaths and bridleways that make their way through the Vale. Two winding lanes lead from Whitchurch Canonicorum through the Vale linking farms along the route, reaching Marshwood Village, Bettiscombe, Pilsdon and Broadoak.

The Char River, which drains the Vale, rises inland to the north and enters the Vale between Pilsdon and Laverstock. The river valley provides a wildlife corridor and has recently attracted otters to return, indicating an improved environment. The tidal influences extend inland considerably and can change the river character quickly after a rainstorm, from a meandering stream to flood condition, which can make the roads through the Vale impassable for a while.

As the Vale moves into the future, it is hoped that the essential character of the area and its inhabitants will remain unchanged.