The Char Valley Village Communities
Action Plans 2003

for Whitchurch Canonicorum, Wootton Fitzpaine and Stanton St. Gabriel Parishes



Morcombelake and Ryall
Main website | Contents | Previous | Next

Morcombelake and Ryall are two hamlets that are joined together and wrapped around the lower slopes of Hardown Hill, sliding into St. Gabriel’s Valley to the south and into the Char Valley to the north and west.

Being set mainly on high ground many of the dwellings have the benefit of fine views, and from the top of Hardown Hill, panoramic views of the Char Valley and over the Marshwood Vale to Lambert’s Castle in the west. Sweeping round northerly there is Pilsdon Pen, the highest hill in Dorset and on to the east, fine views over Chideock and the countryside around Bridport. Finally, we have the southerly vistas, with the hills of Golden Cap (the highest point on the south coast), Chardown and Stonebarrow and the sea at St Gabriel’s, Charmouth and Lyme Regis.

The A35 trunk road cuts through Morcombelake and so provides the area with a good bus service to Exeter, Axminster, Lyme Regis, Bridport, Dorchester, Weymouth and all places between.

Morcombelake is the home of Moores Dorset Biscuits that are known all over the country. Large numbers of visitors are attracted to both the bakery and the retail shop. There is a small church (CofE) within Morcombelake which is shared by the United Reformed Church, having their services on alternate Sundays. Although Morcombelake and Ryall are quite rural when you get away from the A35, the coast is only a mile and a half away, as the crow flies, and roughly three miles by road will get you to Charmouth beach. Again, away from the A35 there are plenty of footpaths for walkers, and if you are quiet and patient, plenty of bird and animal life to watch and enjoy.
From Hardown Hill.
From Hardown Hill. (Penny Watt)

Living in Morecombelake

I have lived in Morcombelake for nearly seven years. While that is not nearly long enough for me to be regarded by older villagers as anything other than a newcomer, it is enough time for transient initial impressions to have disappeared.

It should not surprise anyone that the A35 dominates how I feel about Morcombelake. The road has advantages and, of course, disadvantages. But for the A35, it is likely that we would not have a regular bus service, a shop, a garage, or the Ship Inn. Perhaps even Moores biscuits would not be here either. We also do not have to drive along miles of difficult country lanes whenever we want to travel to or from our village. Those are all important advantages. The main disadvantage is the noise from traffic, of course. A simple re-surfacing such as was carried out at Raymond’s Hill would greatly reduce the noise from the road surface and it may be that will happen shortly.

I greatly enjoy Morcombelake’s easy pedestrian access to the Golden Cap estate. It is wonderful to wander that area and I never tire of it. The combination of hills, farms, and coastline is perfection.

Morcombelake lies mainly on the sides of Hardown Hill and its slope influences many aspects of our lives. The incline affects such fundamental activities as walking, gardening and even outside house painting, for example. These are made more difficult but at the same time more interesting than living on the flat. The necessary deliveries of fuel oil and the emptying of septic tanks are in general more difficult in Morcombelake than elsewhere.

Most houses in Morcombelake lie on the south side of Hardown Hill, which means that we enjoy sunny gardens in summer but that we often suffer severe weather conditions in winter. There is a great feeling of ‘openness’ about living in Morcombelake. Being close to the sea would seem to pose the threat of salt corrosion, but I am surprised not to have observed any sign of that.

I find the great variety of style of houses in Morcombelake quite attractive. Most houses have been designed individually. There is also an ‘eco’ house under construction in the village, which is a particularly interesting development. This house will have Scandinavian standards of insulation and will be heated geothermally. There are hardly any ‘second home’ dwellings in Morcombelake.

The summer influx of tourists to the West Country has only a small effect on life in Morcombelake. There is a big increase in traffic density, of course, for a couple of months but little of it stops here except to visit Moores or eat in The Ship. Those houses offering B&B naturally do very well in the summer. Guests’ inevitable question on arrival is “Anywhere nearby where we can eat?” The answer tends to be ‘The Ship’ so the B&B business also benefits our only pub.

There is a strong and enjoyable community spirit in Morcombelake and it is growing. Most village group activities are centred on the James Hargreaves village hall although some are organised by the Hardown Society. Those responsible for organising these events always take into account the fact that many people in Morcombelake are getting on in years and perhaps do not or cannot drive a car. That fact, coupled with the limited parking available in Morcombelake, influences the type of activity provided. Hence the village enjoys ‘pop-ins’, scrabble evenings, art groups, gardening club, lectures, quiz nights and coach outings, for example. All of these activities require little use of cars; most villagers simply walk to the hall.

Newcomers to a community such as Morcombelake tend to be relatively young, have energy and (sometimes) money. It does not follow that such people will always be welcomed but in my opinion there is an excellent relationship between newcomers to the village and longer term residents. In some ways this is the most enjoyable aspect of life in Morcombelake. I am told it was not always so. Why the present generation of villagers, old and new, get along so well together is hard to explain. Perhaps it is down to the fact that many of us newcomers joined in community activities as soon as we were able and changed village life in a way that older residents find agreeable. Long may that continue.
Morcombelake to the sea.
Morcombelake to the sea. (Penny Watt)
Another viewpoint on living in Morcombelake

The roar of the A35 road dominates Morcombelake like some prehistoric monster that comes to life at about six in the morning and calms down at about six in the evening, but with plenty of noisy action into the night. This road, from my point of view makes Morcombelake a convenient place to live, as it gives good accessibility to town and coast. But there is much more.

I suspect that like me, most residents create their own little oasis where the sights, sounds and smells of nature can be enjoyed. I like to wake early and listen to the dawn chorus in the spring, hear the cock birds waking at Fulvens when the wind is in the west, hear the collared doves coo cooing outside, a sheep bleating, a dog barking and in the depths of winter the sound of silence after a fall of snow.

Sit in the garden, listen to the humming and buzzing of busy bees and other insects. On a summer’s day, see the colourful butterflies flitting amongst the flowers and sunning themselves on the stems, and so much more.

Take an evening stroll along the lanes and enjoy the scent of the honeysuckle in the overgrown hedges, hear the church bells from Whitchurch on practice night when the wind is from the northwest. The smell of newly mown grass, or freshly cut hay, looking to see the first swallow of spring and now, in mid August on Morcombe Green they arrive in their hundreds lining up on the wires, swirling and twittering as they prepare to depart. Collectively this is just one reason for living in Morcombelake, a village of sounds, sights and smells.

Moores Dorset Biscuit Factory

Moores Dorset Biscuits began with the making of Dorset Knobs about one hundred and thirty years ago at Stoke Mill in the Marshwood Vale. In the small bakery Dorset Knobs were baked in the faggot-heated oven for local farm workers after the bread had been made. They were, incidentally, a favourite food of Thomas Hardy who, we are told, had them in the evening with Blue Vinny cheese.

In about 1880 the second son started his own bakery in Morcombelake. This business began as a general bakery then, in the nineteen-twenties, Dorset Knob production was increased until shortly after the Second World War, they had become the main function of the firm, bread and cake production having ceased altogether.

The business, now carried on by the fourth generation, is today mainly concerned with the production of sweet biscuits. For economic reasons, Dorset Knobs are made only during the period January - March, still in the traditional way. Each biscuit is individually moulded by hand and has three separate bakings lasting a total of four hours, the whole process taking eight to ten hours.

More recently a wider range of sweet biscuits was started. The business is expanding and production now runs at a maximum rate of about eighty thousand biscuits a day. They are on sale in shops throughout the South West, the Midlands and the South East of England and worldwide.